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THE career of the writer,
Samuel Butler, is typical of early Canterbury squatting. He did not come
out till 1860, when, as he thought, all the land in the province had
already been taken up. But he was still in time to enjoy the freshness
and hope of the young settlement
and to write vigorous letters home. He decided almost as soon as
he landed, evidently quoting the opinions of others, that farming ‘ as
we do in England’ did not pay. This seems a surprising judgment when we
remember the later development of New Zealand. Yet it is shrewder than
it at first appears, when we think of the conditions of the time, the
restricted market for anything but wool, and the high wages paid in the
most distant of all British colonies. Still he was not disheartened and
rode away from Christchurch to look for his own sheep
country.
Christchurch was so small in
those days that the early
residents told stories of new arrivals who rode right through the
scattered houses without realising they had seen a new-born city. In
spite of its small size, it had the atmosphere of an English cathedral
town from the first, an atmosphere Butler had come to New Zealand to
avoid. He had already visited
Italy
and Switzerland. With a taste for mountain
scenery and the task of looking for sheep country, Samuel’ Butler had
plenty of excuse for exploration pure and simple. He even penetrated to
the glaciers at the heads of many of the great Canterbury river valleys.
These valleys are wide shingle
plains across which the
water wanders in many branches, each a difficult obstacle to cross.
There was little grass on the red and purple screes of their
sides, and only an occasional river flat where sheep might run.
Samuel Butler spent a good
part of his first year in these rides. He even looked down on the
Mackenzie Plains and
admired the soaring majesty of Mount Cook. He
also found time in his five years in the country to acquire and work a
sheep-station and re-sell it at a profit. He had the luck, as he
admitted himself, to buy his land and sheep
on a rising market. He doubled his
capital and was able to do what so many of the early squatters
only dreamed of, returning to England to live happily ever afterwards.
The land he chose up the Rangitata River still bears the name he gave
it— ‘ Mesopotamia.’ He had an exciting race to the Land Office in
Christchurch to secure definite
ownership of a hut built by an obstinate neighbour on Butler’s
allotment. The neighbour won, but lost the hut site, as he foolishly
forged an entry in the application register to make doubly sure.
Samuel Butler’s Mesopotamia
consisted of two sod huts with leaky thatched snow-grass for roof. The
roof at times blew in. The run had the advantages of being remote and
having river boundaries. From one point of view these were
disadvantages. It took a fortnight to bring stores to the station by
bullock waggon from Christchurch, and the Rangitata was very dangerous
to cross in the slightest flood. But the run was free from contact with
other sheep, which might have been infected with scab. This was a stock
disease that swept away thousands of Canterbury sheep.
It traveled along much-used stock
routes from the older settlement of Nelson. Besides the advantage
of preserving the sheep from
infection, river boundaries made mustering easier and prevented
the flocks straggling.

A pack-horse in the Clyde
Valley, Rangitata headwaters. It was this country the J. B. A.
Auckland and Samuel Butler explored in their search for new grazing
land. Glaciers blocked their access to the Main Divide, but good sheep
country existed on the river flats and in the snow grass basins above.

The slopes of the Whitcombe
Pass across the Rakaia Valley at Butler's Saddle in the high range in
the background. It was from Butler's Saddle that Samuel Butler and J.
H. Baker first saw the Whicombe Pass, the most feasible route from the
Rakaia Valley to Westland. they climbed to the top of the Whitcombe
Pass, but did not cross it to Westland. After Butler had reported the
existence of the pass to the Survey Department, H. Whitcombe and J.
Louper were sent to make the first complete crossing. The Journey of
these two explorer's proved one of great hardship and danger;
Whitcombe was drowned in the Taramakau River, and Louper returned to
Canterbury over the Harper Pass in a state of semi starvation.
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On the road a sketch by L. J.
Kennaway. In his 'Crusts" he writes for the scene,
'The sheep were so wild and restless
that it was necessary to keep a double watch.' He calls the improvised
tent 'a struggle not a whit less rude than that shown in the sketch.'

A much enlarged drawing of
the 'Scab' which caused terrible losses to squatters in the early
days. This woodcut is taken from a report written by Dr. James Hector
in the 1880's

A later view of Mesopotamia, the
station which Butler took up in 1860.
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