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THE tradition of Cook had not
ended with him. In the late forties Captain Stokes in the Acheron
made his historic survey of the West Coast and Southland. The journal of
the expedition in the Hocken Library, Dunedin, contains an excellent
description of Milford Haven:
Here, in remarkable contrast
to the general character of New Zealand scenery, the vast precipices
enclosing the outer basin are treeless; indeed, nearly bare of verdure
of any kind. As the Acheron steamed slowly to her anchorage
beneath those cliffs, towering on
either hand several thousand feet perpendicularly, her masts
seemed to dwindle to nothing, and from her insignificance, we were able
more fully to comprehend the vast elevation of their snow-capped
summits. The haven, which sometimes expands into a broad sheet of water,
sometimes contrasts so as to confine the prospect to but. a short
distance ahead, has two
considerable falls of water, precipitating themselves into the
sea like the descent of successive wreaths of snow. . . . Next day, the
ship was moved into the furthermost
anchorage where she lies landlocked — owing to the rivers and
cascades here discharging themselves, the water is nearly fresh
alongside—a pointed mountain of naked rock 5,000 feet high enclosed us
on one hand—a still more elevated mountain 6,700 feet—clothed with rich
verdure below but equally bare on its summit, seems impending over the
vessel on the N.E. and a savage-looking gorge down which a brawling
torrent rushes, and flows over the shingly beach into the sea, are the
chief features of this, the most
remarkable harbour yet visited by the Acheron in New
Zealand. ...
Yesterday Dr. Lyall
and party set out to ascend the snow covered
mountain in sight—they brought back a number of ducks, kakapos and one
kiwi—fancied they caught sight of a mysterious bird.
Stokes’s map shows Mount Cook
(12,349 feet) as 13,200 feet high,
and names
Mount Tasman the
‘ Dome.’ His running sketch of the coastline
stood for many years. His chart is still in use, though it is now being
corrected by the naval survey ship
H.M.S. Endeavour.

A sketch map of Milford Sound, showing the land
locked natural harbour.
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Mount La Perouse, from the Cook
River, Westland. this high peak was originally called 'Stoke' after
the Captain of the 'Acheron,' and it seems unfortunate that his name
has been replaced by that of a French navigator who never visited New
Zealand. Five high peaks of the mid-sothern alps are named Cook,
Tasman, Dampier, La Parouse, and Torres-the five navigators's.

H.M.S. 'Archeron' in Port
Chalmers, 1848.

By contrast with the work at
marine surveyors look at this sketch of a Taranaki survey camp; wood
fires, taut canvas, and scattered equipment make the scene natural and
homely.
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